How to Make Nickel Gap Shiplap Using Woodline Rabbeting Router Bits

ship lap shiplap

How to Make Nickel Gap Shiplap Using Woodline Rabbeting Router Bits


Nickel gap shiplap offers a clean, timeless look with a consistent reveal between boards — and with the right tools, you can make it yourself. Using Woodline’s rabbeting router bits, you can create precise, repeatable profiles without the need for tongue-and-groove joinery.

Materials & Tools
•    Kiln-dried lumber (pine, poplar, or MDF)
•    Router with a Woodline rabbeting bit
•    Router table (optional but recommended for control)
•    Measuring tape and square
•    Sandpaper or orbital sander
•    Paint, stain, or clear finish
•    Spacers (nickel, tile spacers, or custom jigs)

Step 1: Mill and Cut Your Boards

Start with straight, flat boards. Plane and rip them to your desired width — 5¼ inches is a popular choice. Aim for a consistent thickness of ¾ inch for a traditional shiplap feel.

Step 2: Cut the Rabbet with Woodline Bits


Install a Woodline rabbeting bit (WL-1342-1 or WL-1225-7) in your router. These bits come with interchangeable bearings, allowing you to control the depth of cut — typically ⅜ inch deep by ½ inch tall for a classic shiplap profile.


Run each board along the bit to cut a rabbet on one long edge. This creates the overlapping lip that defines shiplap and allows for a clean nickel gap when installed.

Tip: Use a router table for better control and consistency, especially if you're working with longer boards.

Step 3: Check Fit


•    Rout two scrap pieces and check the fit:
o    Boards should overlap easily.
o    A clean, even gap (about 1/16" or the width of a nickel) should appear.
•    Adjust the bit height and/or depth if needed for tighter or looser fit.
 
Step 4: Create the Back Relief Groove (Optional)

   Some shiplap includes a shallow groove on the back to reduce cupping. Use a dado or groove cutter for this or skip if you prefer a flat back.
 
Step 5: Sand and Pre-Finish


Sand all surfaces smooth. Apply primer and paint or stain before installation to ensure even coverage and avoid visible raw edges in the gaps.


Step 6: Install with a Nickel Gap


•    Let boards acclimate to your space for 48–72 hours.
•    Mark your studs and start from the bottom.
•    Use construction adhesive and finish nails to secure each board.
•    Insert a nickel or spacer between boards to maintain a consistent gap.
•    Work your way up, staggering seams and trimming the final row to fit.

Woodline’s router bits are built to last and deliver clean, chatter-free cuts — perfect for a project like this.



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